Cannobio: Climbing Out of the Cannobino Valley

Cannobio sits on Lake Maggiore a few kilometres from the Swiss border, at the foot of the Valle Cannobina. We've come back again and again since 2016, and every ride goes up: to the hilltop villages, to the steepest road I've ever met, or all the way to the top of the valley. Five rides written up in full.

We first came to Cannobio in September 2016 and have been back most years since: October 2017, September 2018, April, July and August 2019, October 2021, and two weeks in May 2026. It's a lake town for sitting on the front with a coffee or a spritz, which we do a lot. But the reason it works for cycling is the valley behind it.

Cannobio

Cannobio is a town of about 5,100 people on the western shore of Lake Maggiore, in the Piedmont province of Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, at 214m, where the Cannobino river reaches the lake. The lakeside road to the Swiss border opened in 1863 and brought factories to the town. On the lakefront stands the Santuario della Pietà, which commemorates the events of 1522, when a painting of the Virgin Mary was believed to have bled. The main square on the lake was relaid in cobbles and granite in 2003–04.

Behind the town is the Valle Cannobina, with its scattering of stone villages, now one municipality, and one road running all the way up it to the Passo dello Scopello and the Val Vigezzo. Every side road off it is a short, steep climb to a village, which is exactly what makes the rides here so good, and so hard.

The Five Rides

The big one The Big Loop Three climbs: Falmenta, the Scottish village of Gurro and Alpe Piazza. 51.1km · 1,392m · 2019 The steepest Last of the Climbs To Gurrone, with 300m at 26–39%. Off and walking, then a beer. 18.0km · 558m · 2019 Almost car free The Valley Loop Up the whole valley to Malesco and back, in October. 52.5km · 1,292m · 2021 For climbing nuts Falmenta & Crealla Two hilltop villages and a very steep climb out of a village square. 36.8km · 1,078m · 2026 Twice in a week Cannobio to Malesco To the Passo Marco Pantani stone at the top of the valley, twice. 54.6km · 1,252m · 2026

Around Cannobio

The pebble beach at Cannobio with Lake Maggiore and a mountain across the water — The beach at Cannobio (September 2016).

The lakefront at Cannobio in the evening with restaurants along the promenade — The lakefront in the evening (September 2018).

A small dog sitting by moored boats in the harbour at Cannobio — Lillie by the boats (April 2019).

Motorhomes parked in a row at the camper stop by Cannobio — The camper stop (April 2019).

A beer and a plate of snacks on a lakefront table in the evening sun — The end of a ride, on the front (July 2019).

Where It Is

Cannobio (marker) on Lake Maggiore, with the Valle Cannobina running west into the mountains.